Ferragosto

Saturday, 15 August; it’s Ferragosto in Italy.

What luxury. I woke up at 10.30 am, after 8 solid hours of sleep. Yes, I actually made sure I counted exactly 8 when I set my alarm clock the night before. The last time I slept for 8 or more hours, I must have been a baby.

Well, it’s the famous Ferragosto, the day the whole of Italy is either trapped in chaotic traffic, or frozen into frenzy by local holiday makers. This is an Italian holiday, related to the celebration of the middle of summer and end of hard labour in the fields. Later, Roman Catholicism in Europe adapted this date to commemorate the Assumption.

Today, shops, museums and public facilities are either closed or semi functioning, while harried locals battle impossible traffic as they drive to beaches and resorts for holidays.

I had wanted to go to San Gimignano, a popular Tuscan hill town (‘’Medieval Manhatten of Italy’’), near Siena. But apparently no bus goes there today.

Ah well, I guess I will take the opportunity to sleep in, and recover from the past 2 consecutive late nights.

Last night, we went to Il Campo, the heart of Siena, hoping to catch the prova (trials) of the Palio. But we missed it, and stayed back for a band performance instead. The concert started at 10.15 pm but we ‘’choped’’ seats at the 3rd row (first 2 being reserved for VIPs) since 8.30 pm! By the time the concert ended and we made it back to the bus stop, the last bus available was at 12.30 am. It was a long and winding journey; but at least we made it to a bus stop not too far from our residence and walked back at 1.30 am, exhausted.

And the night before, we had gone to Montepulciano to visit la Cantina di Redi, the cellar of the famous Montepulciano wine. This visit was organized by the University.

It sure feels like back to school days again, with 2 Uni staff herding a huge troop of restless students. What’s more ‘’school-like’’ was the low cost – the15 Euro we paid covered transport, wine and snack tasting, a sandwich and Coke or beer for dinner and a ticket for an open air theatre which already costs 10 Euro. The wine tasting felt like a holy communion, each of us holding a plastic cup waiting patiently in line for a drop of red wine. And the prosciutto sandwich was as hard, dry and spartan as the stones on the paved roads of Europe. Not a leaf of lettuce or a sliver of tomato or dribble of olive oil added to the bone dry bread roll.

The school excursion started at 3 pm after class and we made it back after watching a traditional open air theatre at 1.30 am, again, pooped. The receptionist burst out laughing when she saw a bus load of sleepy-eyed students stumbling into the residence. ‘’Go back to bed immediately and sleep well, Ok,’’ she told us.

The next morning, it was a miracle I managed to wake up in time to have breakfast and rush through my homework before class began punctually at 9 am! Of course, my brain was not functioning properly and I made the exercises look more difficult than necessary. I actually was stumped at a large chunk of the exercises and decided to just wing it during class. It was only when the teacher went over the exercises that I realized all I had to do was convert and conjugate the verbs, and not try and rationalize the arguments.

Today, I am going to do as much of my homework as possible so that I can stake out a good vantage point at Il Campo tomorrow for the Palio. I have two essays to write, a bunch of grammar exercises to complete, and some research to do, in preparation for my oral exam on the 28th. Daunting, (the research and oral), but hey, how can anyone not think of the Palio first?

Il Palio is the most spectacular festival in Italy, which dates back to 1310. It is an intense and colourful bareback horse race, held every 2 July and 16 August. Before that, there are weeks of trial runs, parades, feasts and fever.

People think it’s a festival for the tourists. But for the Sienese, it’s not for visitors; they consider it very much THEIRS. The Sienese are born into each contrade (‘’neighbourhood ward’’); they are baptized within the same contrade and are buried within the same contrade. There are 17 contrade in Siena, of which 10 will be chosen to compete at the race.

The race depends very much on drawing lots – the horse one rides, the order one is lined up, even the jockey chosen to ride for each contrade, all depends on lots. It’s the horse that wins, sometimes with no rider! The jockey’s main job is to hang onto the horse’s bare back and thrash the other horses or riders with the whip. Sometimes the rider, or even the horse, goes flying out of the track.

The prize? The palio – a banner painted with the image of the Virgin Mary, in whose name the race is run – and the honour of the contrade.

The race will start at 7.30 pm but the city centre and surroundings will be closed by 4.30 pm. My friends and I plan to be there by 3 pm to soak in the feverish atmosphere.

But first, it’s back to school work….